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Woven into the Earth: Textile finds in Norse Greenland Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns The Medieval Tailor's Assistant: Making Common Garments 1200-1500 Men's and Women's Accessories of Medieval Romanesque Period - 11th - 15th Centuries Pattern by La Fleur De Lyse 14th Century Man's Accessories Pattern by Reconstructing History 15th Century Man's Accessories Pattern by Reconstructing History 14th Century Women's Accessories Pattern by Reconstructing History

This webpage is divided into three sections: men’s hoods, women’s hoods, and links to information on making hoods.

Men’s Hoods

I’m also encluding some examples of hoods being worn in the “chaperone” style, as they sometimes provide good construction-related details. Additional pictures can be found here as well.

Women’s Hoods

One thing I’ve noticed: I can find no examples in period illustrations of a woman wearing a dagged hood. Sure, I’ve seen them in dagged sleeves, and even in one example, a gown with a dagged bottom hemline – but no dagged hoods.

Katie Dawson has pointed out a sketch of a lady wearing a dagged hood. Rebecca Tonkin passes along what appears to be a dagged hood draped over a lady's shoulders. However, plain-cut bottom edges seem more typical on women's hoods.

I’ve found a few literary references, though. Margery Kempe, in a section of her writings posted as an inset further down on this page, describes herself (“this creature”) as having been proud and vain, and wearing hoods with dagged tippets. (As discussed elsewhere on this site, it seems that “tippets” refer to the long tail of a hood, rather than sleeve-streamers.)

  • Some Clothing of the Middle Ages includes information about several extant hoods, including two buttoned hoods -- London 246 and London 247.
  • The Maciejowski Bible, 1240s
    Boaz encounters Ruth (fol. 17v): Farmworker picking up grain (lower central part of illustration); notice white linen head-wrap worn under the hood.
  • Manesse Codex (UBH Cod. Pal. germ. 848), 1300-1330: A woman observing the tournament of Albrecht Marschall von Rapperswil (fol. 192v) wears a fur-lined open hood; a woman observing the tournament of Johann von Ringgenberg (fol. 190v) seems to have a hood perched on top of her head.
  • The Luttrell Psalter (British Library MS. ADD. 42130), c. 1325-1335: Some of the women (like the milkmaid in fol. 163v) wear open hoods, sometimes over a veil
  • Coronation of Clarette, Parfait du Paon (BNF Fr. 12565, fol. 257), mid-14th century; Clarette wears a buttoned hood, and another lady wears her hood draped over her shoulders
  • Some of the women in Le Roman de la Rose (University of Chicago Library ), c. 1365, wear open hoods, some of which seem to have buttons; see fols. 80r, 81r, and 83r, for example.
  • Illustration of St. Ursula and companions in an Italian breviary, ca. 1380; one of the women in the back row wears a red hood on top of her head.
  • Tacuinum Sanitatis, 15th century (BNF Nouvelle acquisition latine 1673), c. 1390-1400: Celery (fol. 28v); Hissop (fol. 29v); Marjoram (fol. 30)
  • Bible historiale by Guiard des Moulins, beginning of the 15th century
    The Judgment of Solomon (BNF Fr. 10, fol. 318): Two women wear open hoods.
    Birth of Israel (BNF Fr. 10, fol. 444): One woman's headdress looks like an open hood worn over a veil and wimple.
    Abraham travels (BNF Fr. 9, fol. 19): Sarah wears an open hood.
  • A shepherdess in the Rohan Hours (BNF Lat. 9471, fol. 85v); a bright red lining on the black hood
  • And, whan this creatur was thus gracyowsly comen ageyn to hir mende, sche thowt sche was bowndyn to God and that sche wold ben his servawnt. Nevyrthelesse, sche wold not leevyn hir pride ne hir pompows aray that sche had usyd befortym, neithyr for hyr husbond ne for noon other mannys cownsel. And yet sche wyst ful wel that men seyden hir ful mech velany, for sche weryd gold pypys on hir hevyd and hir hodys wyth the typettys were daggyd. Hir clokys also wer daggyd and leyd wyth dyvers colowrs betwen the daggys that it schuld be the mor staryng to mennys sygth and hirself the mor ben worshepd.

    The Book of Margery Kempe, ll. 189-196

  • Sketch of a woman wearing a dagged hood in a French sketchbook (PML M.346 panel 3v), c. 1400
  • De mulieribus claris (BNF Fr. 598), beginning of the 15th century: Women wear open hoods in illustrations of Juno (fol. 12r), Minerva (fol. 13r), Pamphile of Kos (fol. 68v), Tanaquil (fol. 70v), Sappho (fol. 71v), Thamyris (fol. 86r), Leontion (fol. 92v), Flora (fol. 97r), A young Roman woman (fol. 99r), Iaia (fol. 100v), Tertia Aemilia (fol. 112r), Turia (fol. 123v), Sulpicia (fol. 125r), and Anicia Faltonia Proba (fol. 143v).
  • Women in open hoods throughout the Comedies of Terence (BNF Latin 7907 A), c. 1400-1407
  • A woman wears an open hood with an almost exaggerated (wire-supported?) front in Terence's Comedies (BNF Arsenal 664, fol. 230v), c. 1410
  • Les Tres Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, 1412-1416
    Women in February, July, and September wear open hoods.
  • Decameron, c. 1414-1419
  • Several women in open hoods in an illustration from the Decameron (BNF Fr. 239, fol. 1r), 2nd quarter of the 15th century
  • Border, The Hours of Marguerite d'Orleans (BNF Lat. 1156 B, fol. 135), c. 1426
  • Several women wear open hoods throughout The Decameron (BNF Arsenal 5070), 1432
  • Good rear view of a woman's open hood in the Gathering of Manna in the Hours of Catherine of Cleves (PML M.945, fol. 137v), c. 1440
  • Gifts of the Holy Spirit (BNF Fr. 50, fol. 28v) and Miracle of St. Narcissa (BNF Fr. 51, fol. 91), Speculum historiale, 1463
  • Lust, a book of hours (PML M.1001, fol. 98r), c. 1475
  • Two women in open hoods, a book of hours (PML M.1001, fol. 48r), c. 1475
  • Open hoods on fols. 1v, 3v, 6v, and 20v of the Hours of Charles d’Angoulême, c. 1475-1500; the white band underneath may actually be this sort of coif
  • More open hoods of a few different styles on fols. 24r, 45r, 48r, 67v, 76v, 77r, 109v of Le roman de la rose (Douce 195), end of the 15th century. Notice the “winged” look on some of the hoods; others seem more loose, without the stiff shapes along the sides. Again, this style of coif seems to be worn under the hood in many of these illustrations. In fol. 66v, the hood is lying on the floor, giving an unusual view of an empty hood, though it may be more like the headwear shown on fol. 11v and 114r.
  • Annunciation to the Shepherds, Hours of Henry VIII (PML H.8, fol. 56v), c. 1500

Making Hoods